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ENGLISH ARTISITS

收集叶之威在泰国旅游写生时的见闻轶事。

曼谷的佛寺
Temples of Bangkok

宗教是藉艺术的力量才得以深入民心,艺术也因宗教的用途而得以发展。我们要了解泰国的传统艺术,就会去拜会佛寺不可,可以说是集建筑、绘画与雕刻的大成,和传统的文化源流,在全曼谷的四百余座佛寺中,我们只能选定其中的三座作为瞻谒的对象。就是:玉佛寺 (Wat Phra Kaew),越菩寺 (Wat Po),和云石寺 (Wat Benchamabopitr)。

早上七时,大家都已准备妥当,但为了等待向导,竟延至八时半才能出发。首先是到玉佛寺去参观。

这是泰国皇族御用的一座佛寺,就在皇家田附近。旧皇宫的左邻,占地面积极广。以往至此参观的游客,必须穿上大衣,方得获准踏入寺院,现在,游客已不必再受此条例的限制了。我们因都带有相机,所以要缴泰币五铢才能步入寺院范围内。

整座寺庙的建筑,有点像中国的殿庙式。四周的殿柱与栋蕨都髹上了金黄色,或砌上了中国的彩瓷和玻璃片,真是金碧辉煌、五光十色。足以眩人眼目!我们约化了半小时在寺中四周的走廊间环绕了一圈。这回廊尽是壁画,内容是印度古典文学「罗摩衍那」史诗。其描绘的技法是以民间画为本;而参以西洋画意味。有的画面上,金色还很清新,背景却已老旧不堪显得很不协调。但是有的却还好我相信这些壁画,经过长久年代的侵蚀原画早已剥落损坏了。现在我们看到的,都是经过后来的画家重修重画,而且不是出自一个人的手笔,也不是在短期间内完成的。我想仔细算算一共有多少幅壁画,孟农说:“不必算了!我知道由佛陀出生至成正觉止,总计一百七十八幅!” 这家最高贵的国家佛寺,是以一尊玉佛而闻名的。这座玉佛就供奉在正殿里。据说这座价值连城的玉佛——泰国人民的最高信仰物,是一位印度高僧在碧特里浦德Patalibutr,用一块浓绿无瑕的翠玉,雕琢而成的。全座佛像高约二十七英寸,阔约二十英寸,雕成之后,又辗转地流落到锡兰、柬埔寨、缅甸、寮国、清莱、清迈等地,最后到达了永珍。及至郑王击败寮军之后,才从永珍将此玉佛迎回吞武里府。到拉玛一世王建都曼谷时,就在皇宫范围内建了这座堂皇的寺院,专为供奉着尊被视为国宝的玉佛,才得以安居下来。它被供奉在玉佛寺,至今已有一百八十多年的历史。

正殿的左侧殿宇,是专供人民膜拜的。建筑方式纯属泰国风味,整片墙面及柱子,都砌饰以五彩云石,在日光照映之下,显出闪烁的光!参观者要入庙内游览,照例要脱去鞋靴置于门口,还要另付五铢钱!殿后有许多耸高的佛塔,直冲云霄。每道寺门外,都矗立着壮大奇形的武士像,这座色彩灿艳,过于豪华奢丽的佛寺,使得我们都下不了笔作画呢!

走出玉佛寺的大门,沿着森南采路Sanan Chai Road向左行至十字路口,就到达越菩寺了。寺前有两座由中国赠送的石像,面貌和蔼可亲,与玉佛寺的奇形武士像完全异趣!据说这两座就是唐代名将尉迟恭和秦琼的雕像!

此寺的面积范围较玉佛寺为小,而与玉佛寺遥遥相对!越菩寺的原名是越普哈楠Wat Bodharam,创建于大城皇朝。至拉玛一世王时才将此寺重修作为僧侣的教育场所。寺殿中供有一座大卧佛,长约四十公尺,阔十二公尺。这座塑像是用砖块堆砌,做成骨架,然后涂上灰泥,再铺饰以合金。

全体闪闪发着金光,巨大无比,几乎满据了整座佛堂。这座卧佛,就成为越菩寺的一大特色了。

到了拉玛三世执政时,就下令在越菩寺四周,建筑了许多座的凉亭,把泰国的古药典完全刻在亭壁的石碑上,说明各种疾病的征象、病状与治疗之用,还有巫医治病的方法。寺中的广场还有一组大大小小约计十多座的佛塔,据说由历代帝王所建筑的,塔里都藏有高僧的骨灰。在走廊间有一整列趺坐佛像,每座大小一致,雕刻精美,全部约有两百余座,壁上有很好的浮雕,如果游客有兴致的话,可以自备拓纸与墨,寺里有工具供给,每小时收费十铢,任人摩拓。我因行色倥偬,否则,我倒是最喜爱这套玩意儿的!

云石寺是在拍通孟路Nahhorn Pathorn Road,考辇公园附近,是西方文明传入泰国之后的建筑物,为泰国现代美术表现的最好典例。此寺建于拉玛五世王朱拉隆功时期,是泰国著名的古典艺术家那立斯王所绘制的蓝图,地面、石阶,栏杆,柱子,均用意大利的云石铺砌而成。寺顶则盖上中国的黄金色琉璃瓦,边缘围以青色,正门髹上朱红的色彩,与晶莹光滑的大理石,相互辉映,鲜艳闪烁,令人有如走进神话中的宫殿之感,将可以看到一位英俊的王子或一位美丽的公主出现······

寺中供奉着一座巨大的佛像,据说是亲那叻佛祖的精美雕塑,完全是根据彭世洛的亲那叻佛祖的塑像而雕刻的被认为是全泰国雕刻最完美的一座佛像呢!

寺后有一个广大的庭院,种植着碧绿苍翠的树木,一道河水静静地从寺后流过。还有一座红柱黄瓦的精致小亭,半伸入小河中。小亭旁边有一弯朱红色的拱桥,横跨在小河上,雕栏精巧,色彩灿丽,姿态雅致,映浸在镜一般的水面上形成了一种恬静的意境。

这座东西合璧的华丽佛寺,充满了豪华、富丽的气象。它有着泰国传统的美术素质,又深受到中国与意大利的美术感染;所以我说云石寺可说是中、泰、意美术融汇的结晶!是开东西美术交流之路的调和和创作物!

Bangkok, the bustling capital of Thailand, is renowned for its vibrant street life and cultural heritage. One of the most striking aspects of the city's cultural landscape is its numerous Buddhist temples, also known as "wats." These temples are scattered throughout Bangkok and play a significant role in the daily lives of its residents.

One of the most iconic temples in Bangkok is Wat Phra Kaew, also known as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Located within the grounds of the Grand Palace, this temple houses the revered Emerald Buddha, a small but highly esteemed statue meticulously carved from a single piece of jade. The temple's architecture is a testament to Thai craftsmanship, with intricate details, gilded spires, and colorful mosaics adorning its structures.

Another prominent temple is Wat Pho, known for its massive reclining Buddha statue. This golden statue, measuring 46 meters in length, is a sight to behold. Visitors can explore the temple's extensive grounds, featuring beautifully landscaped gardens, rows of Buddha statues, and traditional Thai architecture. Wat Pho is also known as the birthplace of traditional Thai massage, and it continues to offer massage and traditional medicine courses.

Wat Arun, or the Temple of Dawn, is another striking temple along the Chao Phraya River. Its central prang (tower) is adorned with porcelain mosaics, creating a shimmering effect in the sunlight. Visitors can climb the prang for panoramic views of the city and the river.

Wat Saket, also known as the Golden Mount, offers visitors a chance to ascend a man-made hill to reach a gilded chedi (stupa) at its summit. The climb is rewarded with panoramic views of Bangkok's skyline. Wat Saket is known for its peaceful atmosphere, making it a favorite spot for meditation.

Wat Benchamabophit, or the Marble Temple, is celebrated for its stunning white Italian marble architecture. The temple's main hall features intricate crossbeams and ornate designs. It's a tranquil oasis amidst the city's hustle and bustle.

These are just a few of the many temples that grace Bangkok's landscape. Each temple reflects a unique aspect of Thai culture and spirituality, and they serve as both places of worship and cultural landmarks for locals and tourists alike. When visiting these temples, it's essential to dress modestly and respectfully to honor the sacredness of the sites.

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